Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Smooth Criminelle

The thing I love about Serge Lutens' fragrances is that it always take a unique and dark approach in presenting its art. Take Tubereuse Criminelle, for example.  Christopher Shedrake (working with Mr Lutens) explores the white floral tuberose like an abstract painting: the flower is there somewhere, but there are cubes, there are lines, and there are browns and blacks and green everywhere. It may not conform to the conventional definition of beauty, but darn if it isn't beautiful. This perfume has the most exhilarating top notes, a mixture of rubber, eucalyptus, Vicks Vaporub, gasoline. Don't let the mixture of those smells scare you : the over all effect is smooth and well-blended, and eccentric. It wakes up your nose. On a cold morning like today, it is perfect, and I cannot discern if it's hot or cold. Then the tuberose flower starts to unfold, almost like an afterthought. Oh, this is a tuberose scent, I suddenly remember and the flower is right there. But it is not the heady creamy Fracas, the spicy notes like nuteg and orange flower stay in the background. The over all effect is modern, even if I realize this scent was created twelve years ago. 'Tis then I realize the scent is timeless, and I have been hit by a smooth criminal.

(The picture is of the bell jar version, this scent is now available as an export via The Ephemeral Collection)

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