Sunday, August 3, 2014
Black Is Dirty (Scent Review: L'Artisan Parfemeur Mure et Musc)
I have been trying to document all my scents, which is giving me an excuse to wear a lot of perfumes I have not touched for a long time. These scents are neglected, for the most part, because they have been filed in the back of the cabinet. I pulled it L'Artisan's Mure et Musc the other day and spritzed it on, having forgotten what it smelled like. Well, I had an idea what it did. I know and remember it being a blackberry scent, sort of a precursor to the floral explosion of the late 90s. In my mind, I also associated and likened this with Lalique Amethyst, probably because of the blackberry note. (Amethyst is more powdery, and a lot more synthetic smelling than this) At first spray, Mure et Musc is a burst of berries, with an undertone of citrus that gives it a bright feeling. It sparkles, it's effervescent. It is also sweet and cloying. On a summer day, it can be a bit too much, like an overripe fruit. But as it dries down, there' s the musk. And I don't recall this, bu tit is a dirty resinous musk - the kind you see in Serge Luten's Musc Kublai Kahn, or in Musc Tonkin. It permeates, it eats up the sweetness, and it stays. I love it, like getting to the pit of a fruit after you devoured its flesh. It gives a great antidote of skank after the juicy fruit. I can imagine this as a 1976 scent, the year this was created. As a matter of fact, this may be just a little subversive for today, in the very best way. I am surprised it hasn't been discontinued yet, so it must be a good seller for the house. Mind you, I have the "regular" version, and now I am raring to sniff the Extreme reformulation, as I hear that the musk is even more amplified there. I wore this on a summer day, and I think the musk may have bloomed more. Butlet it bloom, let it bloom, let it bloom!